Thursday, November 29, 2007

wah travel!

It’s official. I’m coming home on the 8th of January. And, like I said before, I was sort of sad that I’m not coming home earlier, but would know that when all is said and done…I AM SO EXCITED.

Okay. So I’m pretty sure I’m leaving Irkutsk around the 15th or the 16th. I’m taking the Trans-Siberian to Moscow…I told Ivan and Joseph I’d be going with them, but the thing is, I really want to stop in some cities on the way and I think they just want to go straight through. Colleen told me I have to go to Kazan, and I’d like to go to Samara and Omsk and some other places…I think I’m going to make a list of all the places I can go and then choose. Ivan let me borrow his Lonely Planet guidebook, which is the best thing in the world. I think I’ll choose a couple cities (no more than 4 or 5) and…it’ll be excellent. The only thing that sucks is at this point I’ll still be carrying around all of my luggage.

So then I arrive in Moscow. First thing to do is to find a luggage storage place where I can put my gigantic suitcase so I don’t have to lug it around Western Russia (I’ll have my black handbag and Adidas gymbag, which should be more than enough-I don’t really need much with me). Elisabeth said they should have somewhere I can store it at the airport, which would be incredibly convenient. I don’t even know how to travel around Moscow with luggage. Alone is fine, they have a metro system, I can read. Ack.

So then at that point I’m not sure. I’m definitely going to Yaroslavl for a couple days. I need to coordinate that with Alya and Sonya, because Alya (having lived there for four months) knows Yaroslavl and what’s fun to do, etc. So at some point I’m going to St. Petersburg, probably for a week or so (because everyone says St. Petersburg is amazing and I can spend a week in the Hermitage alone). BUT, here’s an interesting fact that I didn’t realize-Helsinki is only a 6 hour train ride from St. Petersburg! I mean, I knew it was close, but I didn’t realize it was THAT close! So I think I might go to Helsinki for a day or two. Other places I’ve thought about: Novgorod, other cities in the Golden Ring, Estonia, Latvia, Belarus…AH. SO MANY POTENTIAL DESTINATIONS.

Also, did you know that coffee shops in Russia don’t open early, as one would think? So I was planning on waking up early and studying more for Baikalovedene in one of those coffee shops (actually studying more wouldn’t have helped anyway so it’s not THAT big of a deal that I wandered around Irkutsk for a half hour), but they weren’t open! Also it wasn’t even that early-like 9. I mean, I realize that coffee shops are an all the time destination, but don’t most people drink coffee in the morning? Like, who wakes up at 11 and decides that they need their coffee THEN? Anyway I was not thrilled about that and ended up at the morskii café at 10:30 in the morning, getting strange looks from the girls working there (who were not dressed up in sailor costumes, maybe before lunch is too early for that kind of ridiculousness).

Also I saw this music video for a TATU song called “Not Gonna Get Us” (Nas Ne Dogonyat in transliterated Russian). Okay, a lot of Russian music videos are completely bizarre. But this one takes the cake. These two girls hijacked this burning semi-truck and are driving around some frozen part of Russia with it. They drive through lots of barricades and this truck is on fire for a surprisingly long time without blowing up. Then they show pictures from their childhood. Then back to the burning runaway truck. Like…WHAT?! Also I’ll have you know that all TATU songs are completely ridiculous, especially the one about them being in love with a robot.

I should be a) sleeping or b) doing my homework for speech practice, but after my week of frantic Baikal studying and information gathering for my papers, I need a breather. I watched Ocean’s 11 today…for the 85th time. I would be so much more tempted to watch these in Russian if they didn’t have completely AWFUL dubbing. Like, SO bad. And most of the time it’s one voice for everyone. I completely don’t understand how anyone can prefer dubbing to subtitles. I mean, COME ON.

Okay, that’s all for today from the Strange Russian Occurrences front. Also I’ve noticed that as I speak more and more Russian, I am considerably less able to use prepositions in English. Oh, also interesting-I sort of figured that after the Middlebury program was over I’d overload myself with English…but I actually think I’ll be overloaded myself with RUSSIAN. Like, every once in awhile I listen to English music…but I think once I’m traveling I’m going to pick up some trashy Russian detective novels, get lots of music from Sonya, and just soak it all in. Maybe I’ll watch the horrible Russian dubbed versions of the movies I have. Then again maybe not.

Also random, but I HAVE to remember that when I look at hotels and hostels and am outraged at the price of 600 rubles per night, that anywhere in the United States it would be nearly impossible to find a hotel for under $50, ESPECIALLY in a major city, which means that a very nice hostel for $24…is really not bad.

Friday, November 30th

Oh my God it’s already the 30th of November.

I’m sitting in Café KoKs, with working internet. This is great. I also have about 15 web pages, in English, about Soviet Foreign Policy in the 1920s and 1930s. I’ll search for a few more, and then I think that’ll be fine.

I also need to plan out my trip which is going to be SO EXCITING AND FUN. Now that I’m actually, like, leaving Russia, I’m sort of sad….also we told Elisabeth to tell Pavel Alexandrovich that we only want to come to tea time with the professors if he’s going to be there.

Today some guy was creepily looking at me on the marshrutka. I wasn’t sure if it was because I was a girl, or if it was because he noticed me looking at him (because he looked EXACTLY like Kevin Spacey).

This fruity iced tea is really good, and they have actual pieces of grapefruit and apple in it. I want to pick them out and eat them, but that wouldn’t be very классно.

Also, SONYA, I'll have you know that you know way more about the history of the belii dom than I do, so you'll have to fill in those details.

This internet cafe is so slow it's driving me INSANE.

The internet at Café Koks didn’t work today when Lucy and I were there. That was very, very sad.

The adjustment phase is going relatively well. I think. We have yet to be in the apartment alone though, which…a) hopefully won’t be too uncomfortable and b) hopefully I’ll be able to understand him when he asks more questions about the swamps of New Jersey.

Eddie, Lucy and I had coffee at this little place near the square (also near Tex-Mex). I thought it was very nice, and probably a good place to do homework…which is key, now that I don’t ever have alone time in the apartment.

Children’s home today was okay. They were kids of all different ages, so it was sort of difficult (and at the beginning they didn’t want to play with us), but in the end it was fine. I also love being with all the people from my SPO Phoenix group. We went out for tea afterwards too, so that was fun. We’ll be back next Saturday. As for tomorrow…I don’t so much want to go, to be honest. But I probably will.

Tomorrow we’re meeting at Café Fiesta (grrrrrr) to study for our Baikalovedene test on Thursday. I don’t really know what we’re going to study, because he said he was going to ask very broad questions, but…whatever, we’ll see.

Then at 5 I’m going ice skating! With the SPO Phoenix people. I’m excited. Joseph and Ivan might come too.

Still need to figure out winter plans. Like, I want to see Moscow and St. Petersburg and Yaroslavl…but I also want to go home. I dunno. I think I’m just ready to leave Russia. The interesting thing, though, is that I’m NOT ready to stop speaking Russian all the time. I’m afraid I’m going to forget a lot of it when I go back home. And I don’t want to do that. I haven’t really figured out how to solve this problem, but we’ll see. I think that’s a good sign though (that I’m not ready to stop speaking Russian all the time), and hopefully I won’t regress too much when I go home. I probably will, but I think I’m coming to terms with that. It’s not like this is going to be the best I’ll ever be at Russian.

Sunday, November 25th
AHHHH I HAVE ALONE TIME! Mama Olya told me this morning that “If you come home later and no one’s here…” and I immediately perked up. She even told me when she was leaving! Meaning I could plan this all out! Wooooo! Nadya and Papa Yuri (Yura? Not sure) went to see Natasha, and Mama Olya went…well, somewhere. So I left our Baikal study group early (I don’t think we were really accomplishing much anyway) to come here and hang out by myself. And it is wonderful.

I was a bad person this morning. First of all, I didn’t end up going to the children’s home…and then I didn’t give any money to this guy begging on the street. I don’t want that karma coming back around.

My winter plans seem to be taking shape. I think Joseph, Ivan and I are going to go on the train to Moscow. I don’t know if we’re going to get a 4 person compartment (maybe a fourth person will come?) but I think I’d rather just do the 6-person, open compartments. It’s only $80 that way. I think we’re going to go to Yaroslavl too. Then Joseph’s going to Copenhagen, and Ivan’s going to Helsinki. I’ll probably to go St. Petersburg, and I think Sonya and Alya are going to come at some later date. This is probably not interesting to anyone but me.

Several hours later:
So….we didn’t really go ice skating. There were SO MANY PEOPLE. Like, it was ridiculous. And no one was willing to stand in a line or anything, they all just shoved each other out of the way. Like, seriously? It’s ice skating. Anyway, so we got shoved aside, and waited a long time, and then decided to go to a café. So that was good (also, evidently cocoa with milk is just hot milk…what?). Then we went back, stood in line, and they told us we’d have to wait another hour. So I left.

And I went to the internet café and looked up flights from New York JFK to Cleveland on January 1st or 2nd. And they aren’t obnoxiously expensive. So as soon as I talk to STA travel…woo.

I’ve been trying to keep good posture lately, because I never really stood up straight to begin with but it’s gotten way worse while I’ve been in Russia. And it is like WHOA uncomfortable. And my shoulder/neck muscles are tense to begin with, but now? MAN. Also I’m not really sure I’m doing it right, because I still feel like my shoulder blades are sticking out and not sitting flat on my back, the way they should be. Also every once in awhile I need to shake out my shoulders and then reset myself, and that just looks weird.

Again, several hours later:
AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH. I just called STA travel and they have NOTHING between December 23rd and January 6th. So now I have to decide whether I want to cut out early (and be home for Christmas?) or hang around for what could be a very long time. ESPECIALLY if I’m going to be traveling alone for a large amount of time. I think I’m going to just suck it up and stay until the 6th. I know I’ll hate myself later if I was in Russia and didn’t see Moscow and St. Petersburg and Yaroslavl. And I’ve heard that I could stay in St. Petersburg for, like, ever. Why are so many people flying on New Years Eve/Day? Seriously? I figured that NO ONE would want to do that and I’d have no problem. AGHHH.

Okay I think I’ve already decided. I’ll go for the 6th, and ask them to put me on some sort of wait list if something else opens up before that. Can they do that? I would think so.

Five minutes later:
Okay, freakout SO over. This is going to be great. I can spend a long time in Moscow and St. Petersburg and I’ll have a great time…is anyone going to BE in Moscow or St. Petersburg? At first I thought that there would be a ton of people but they all seem to be slowly dropping out. Sad.

Monday, November 26th
I was SO productive today and it felt really good. Actually, to be honest, I wasn’t really all that productive, but….more so than usual. Sonya, Ivan and I went to the library and found the books we needed for our papers. I photocopied the parts I need from one and the other three will be here tomorrow. The library system somewhat makes sense, we just had to have it explained to us. They have search catalog, just like us. You can search for books, articles, etc by author, title, keyword, etc. A thing will pop up telling you what they have and a little code for it. The only thing, is that the main library (where we were) doesn’t ACTUALLY have many books. Like, in the whole library system, they have 3 million. But in the actual library? Not so many. What you have to do is order them from the gigantic building NEXT to the library, and they’ll deliver it the next day (or in an hour). Which means that most of the library is sort of inaccessible. Or it could be somewhere else, like at the Geography Department. You also can’t take books out of the library, you have to read them there. Which is why I had everything photocopied. Oh, you also can’t photocopy, you have to have someone ELSE photocopy it for you. Anyway I found the two books I need for my mainstream (she said we wouldn’t need more than two…in fact, she seemed surprised when we said we were actually going to do the paper) and two for Baikalovedene, which means I have more than enough (Pavel Alexandrovich gave me another one and some websites). So by tomorrow afternoon I should have all of my “research” done…which means I’ll have a bunch of information sitting in front of me. In Russian. Oh, good. AGH.

Yesterday I went with Joseph and Eddie to this café/bar type thing. Okay, we decided that even if we TRIED, we couldn’t explain the experience of being in a Russian bar. It just can’t be done. And you remember how I said that a lot of strange things in Russia don’t even faze me because, well…almost everything is strange? Yes. Well, remember that, it will be referenced later.

So we went to this bar. You could see the smoke in the air. There were blacklights everywhere and a dance floor in the middle. They had a strange man in the corner who controlled the music/sometimes badly sang. There were about 5 awkward Russians dancing in the middle of this gigantic dance floor. It was a Sunday night. They had the prices of all of the dishes on the menu (I guess if you broke any of them? Anyway). The music was this awful techno stuff. And I’m looking around at all the different people in this bar, wondering why they were there, and then did a double take.

Why were there two 10 year old boys sitting in the corner? What? And then in the other corner-two 10 year old girls. Was this a coincidence? Were they just there because their parents were boozing on a Sunday night? THERE ARE CHILDREN AT A BAR!

Other than that, I would say the experience was pretty standard.

After the library Sonya and I went to the little coffee shop I went to with Lucy and Eddie. I thought it was an enjoyable experience. And this guy that was staying at the Golden Gobi with us was there. WEIRD. At first I didn’t notice him, and then I looked again, and he was just like “hello.” So he’s going to Baikal for a week and then coming back and wanted to get together with us, so now he has my number. He also said he’s going to Vladivostok to get a visa for China, since he was turned down for one in Mongolia (WHAT?! I didn’t even know that could HAPPEN) because he said he wanted to go to Tibet. Is that true? Can you get turned down for a Chinese visa because you said you wanted to go to Tibet? Also this was a conversation in English, so it’s not like there was something lost in translation.

So things with the host father are better. He’s sort of this cute little Buryat guy. I feel bad, I think he’s lonely and wants someone to talk to. He told me the history of two musical groups today. I guess they left the Soviet Union at some point and came back in the 90s. Also this morning before I left to go to the library, he asked me if I was going somewhere and seemed slightly disappointed when I said yes. So then he sat down on the couch and watched TV.

BUT-he did leave the house this morning around 9:30, when I immediately jumped out of bed and was able to put back my breakfast so I wouldn’t have to eat all of it. EXCELLENT. BEYOND EXCELLENT. And I showered and washed all of the dishes before he came back. But anyway, when I came back from the library and asked him how his day was, he was thrilled to show me what he had been working on. I’m not entirely sure what it was he was working on, but I think he fixed the sink (it was broken? He said something about how the water could peacefully run now, or something), and part of the counter was pulled away from the wall and hanging out with the refrigerator on the other side of the kitchen. I also actually REALLY like the music he’s listening to right now. It’s like, the Russian Tom Waits. But actually just now Mama Olya came home and yelled at him to turn it off. Also sad.

I feel bad because Nadya and Mama Olya are yelling at him a lot (well, he’s only been home for two days, but yes). We were watching this ice skating show (where professionals get matched up with celebrities and they have this competition and every week one pair is eliminated), but anyway he was explaining to me who the people where (“And that girl, well she’s a professional figure skater and her husband, that guy right there, is her trainer. Her partner is an actor, usually on…”) and was interrupted by Nadya yelling at him because I’d already been hearing this for two months from her and Mama Olya. But I don’t mind, he can tell me again if he wants to.

Two hours later:
I am now officially web registered for:
Soviet and Russian Politics, The Civil Rights Revolution, Psychological Disorders, and Russian Culture and Civilization II. I’m not especially enthusiastic, but I think my schedule will work out. At first I was worried about not having morning classes, but this means I can get up super early and be really productive for long amounts of time (and I’m GOING to do that-after doing nothing in Russia for an entire semester I’m ready for like, crazy amounts of productiveness). The only thing that sucks is that means I’m going to want to go to bed at like, 9:30, and on Monday nights I have class until 11. I think that’s just a screening though…maybe I can just watch the movies on the weekends…we’ll see. Also my cursor just went insane, that sucks. Is it possible to have to replace touchpads? Maybe I just need a new mouse. I don’t have one right now.

Tuesday, November 27th
So this morning as I ate breakfast, my host father had coffee and sat with me, very nice of him. But he turned on the TV (TV is on for all meals here) and turned it to the music video channel. I’m not entirely sure why, but I definitely would have preferred the news or something, as it was somewhat awkward as in the background of our conversation were rappers talking about their many girls and other doings. Granted, most of them were in English so he didn’t understand any of it, but still. I think he turned it on for my sake, thinking that the music video channel is something I would enjoy…but it created quite the awkward atmosphere. Anyway.

Today in class Irina Militievna pulled out the email Lizi sent her (she printed it) and then taught us how to say “a person from San Francisco” (It’s, like, Sanfransizetz or something). She then told us that Russians have many interjections, such as Oh! Ah! Wah! and Ba! but Americans only have one, and is this exasperated “ugh” sound. We all found this hilarious, had NO idea what she was talking about as we have a) never used this strange sound and b) have never spoken to her in English. Then for the rest of the class we used an absurd amount of interjections, most of them being obnoxious exasperated “ugh” sounds, or BA!. Actually Eddie did most of the noise-making.

Then when I went to go to the library they told me I couldn’t take my own books in. I found this ridiculous, got very upset, and left.

But that’s okay, because then I went to that coffee shop that I fell in love with and fell in love with it even more. The really cheery waitress (I KNOW, in RUSSIA!) Tatiana was there, and it was great. And I WASN’T the only person there alone reading! There was another Russian guy that came in and just had some coffee and read. Also sometimes they play strange music, but today they had fantastic coffee shop music, and “The Sounds of Silence” (sound? Not sure) by Simon and Garfunkel played. That, like, REALLY did it for me. I was so happy. And then later they played “Puttin’ on the Ritz”, which was just like an extra treat. And then I started to get sad, because although we have Starbucks and Caribou Coffee and even a ton of cute, little independent coffee shops, I’d never been in one quite like this. They had a food menu, a LARGE variety of coffees and teas, and, well, I dunno. I’ve just never seen a coffee shop like this in the United States. Also I don’t ever remember seeing “coffee with Bailey’s” on any menu in the US, which is my new favorite coffee drink. It is SO good. So I got sad, thinking about how soon I would have to leave this wonderful little coffee shop.

I started feeling that way about my host family too. I think that’s a good thing.

I’m still freaking out about the paper writing, but I’m going to worry about that AFTER our Baikalovedene exam on Thursday (AHHHH). Irina Militevna ALMOST assigned us a term paper about some sort of grammatical concept, but when she saw the panic on our faces, she decided not to. Excellent.

Okay, back to Baikal.

Also, as my trips to the library have increased, I’ve seen SO many people running along the road next to the river. I mean, I know people told me it was POSSIBLE, but I didn’t think anyone actually did it! If I weren’t so busy, and so out of shape that running in front of other people would be completely embarrassing, I would totally run along the Angara.

Wednesday, November 28th
This is like the neverending blog entry. I need to post this pronto.

I feel a little bit better about our exam tomorrow…but not THAT great. It’s multiple choice and hopefully not too hard. I’m sort of tired of studying at this point, even though I REALLY need to be studying more. Eh.

Also I’m trying to call STA travel and for some reason it isn’t working. This worries me. AHHHH GET ME BACK TO THE UNITED STATES.

Thursday, November 29th
Okay, our exam for Baikalovedene? HARD. He let us use a dictionary though, which helped…but, STILL. Like, I actually studied, and didn’t know most of the answers. Some of them were ridiculous though so it was easier to narrow it down…but still. And it’s sad that Pavel Alexandrovich is going to be like…they don’t know anything. He took pictures of us today, by the way. We were like….awwwwwwwwww. Sad that I’m never going to see him again after two weeks.

But I feel a lot better now that that exam is over…except now I have two papers to write. Eddie wrote 2 pages yesterday, which I think is incredibly impressive. I need to gather more info, which means I need to go to the library again. AHHHH.

Still working on getting my ticket changed. I think I’m going to have to just settle for the 8th. It’s a bummer right now, because I am sick of Russia, but I know once my classes end and I’m actually traveling I’ll be glad to be here (in Russia, not Irkutsk). But once I DO get back, all of my time is going to be spent whipping myself into shape for softball….

I should probably go to the library now. Or at the very least, the internet café. My host father keeps asking me if I want to eat, which is probably my cue to exit the apartment.

Saturday, November 24, 2007

Veb-oogl.

Is where I am right now.

Lucy and I are killing time before we gather in front of "Hotel Angara" and decide what we want to do on this lovely saturday night.

For some reason Papa Yuri got up at 6 AM. He didn't go to bed until at least 1. Then later he told me that he had a lot of newspapers. I didn't really know how to respond to that.

Here's the question: how long do we think I need in each city? St. Petersburg and Moscow? Yaroslavl would only be a couple of days. I'm trying to plan my winter. Thoughts? Advice?

Friday, November 23, 2007

THREE MORE WEEKS.

Friday, November 23rd
I always thought that I was one of those people that could never watch movies again and again and again, but evidently I am. Since I don’t want to buy more movies, I’ve just been watching the same ones over and over. And you know what? They’re interesting every time. Then again, it’s only the 3rd or 4th time, I don’t know how many more times I can watch them. I also feel really bad because poor Sonya is sick at home with nothing to do and I forgot to bring her Little Miss Sunshine and all of my other DVDs. L

It’s like 30 degrees here, which is ridiculous. I wore my black buckle shoes, but forgot how they tend to kick up mud on the back of my pants as I walk. I think I might leave them here when I go. It’ll also make my suitcase significantly lighter, as they weigh about 5 pounds.

I also bought a new lighter. I sort of want someone to ask me if I smoke, just so I can say no and explain that the only reason I have a cigarette lighter is to roast marshmallows. I went for the classy one this time; 48 cents instead of just 40. It has a little cover and lights itself. The only thing is I have to be careful to keep the lid thing away from the flame, because then the plastic melts and a) smells bad and b) when I closed the lid and put it down, the melted plastic hardened and then I couldn’t open it again. Well, I can now, but I had to play with it for a good 15 mins. Definitely worth the extra 8 cents.

I’m going to another children’s home tomorrow, but honestly, I’d rather just sit and work on my papers. I think today I’m going to get all of my other homework out of the way so I can study Baikal and get a good amount of paper done.

I am VERY tired right now. I don’t want to interact. I just want to sleep. I’m trying to figure out how long I’m going to be in Moscow/St. Petersburg/Yaroslavl before I head home. I don’t want to be there for so little time that I feel like I didn’t get to do everything I wanted to do, but I also don’t want to be there for so long that I feel like I’m wasting my time. I doubt I’ll feel like that, but still.

I seriously don’t know how I’m going to do these papers. This requires doing research. Research requires reading a lot, selecting what’s important, condensing information, etc. Now, in order to do that, I need to know what it says. I can’t select what’s important if I don’t know what everything means. If you knew how long it takes me to translate the handouts we have for Baikalovedene, you would understand how insanely large this problem is. AHHHHHHHHHHH

Two hours later:
Oh my God.

So that period of time before everyone came home was like, the calm before the storm. I had watched one movie (Ocean’s 11), and thought about watching another one, but didn’t want to look like a complete lazy bum when everyone came home. I should have, I definitely should have.

So I’m wondering where my host mother is, because she called at like 4:30, as usual, telling me to eat soup, and that she’d see me in the evening. She usually comes home around 5:45. 5:45 came and went. So I’m sitting, enjoying my free time, thinking that I should have watched another movie (I feel weird watching movies when everyone’s here. I feel like I’m occupying their TV…because they watch TV all the time. Like, ALL THE TIME. Anyway.), and the doorbell rings (well, more like buzzed, but that’s okay). And I look through the peephole and see two people. At first I thought it was just two random people, but then Mama Olya said “Natasha, it’s me” (like she does every time, but it was DELAYED this time, I don’t know why.) And a realization washed over me like a wave.

My host father has come home.

Now, one would think this would be not a big deal. But it IS. Because it means I am NEVER GOING TO BE ALONE AGAIN (well, for 3 weeks anyway, but that is a LONG time, my friends, a LONG time). And I remember this afternoon, when I was telling myself that I could run some errands and such, thinking “no. I should go back to the apartment and enjoy my alone time, because soon Papa Yuri is going to come home, and I’m not going to have any.” It is a VERY good thing that I did that. I got a good 5 hours of alone time today. But anyway, this means there will be no more flushing of kasha down the toilet. There will be no putting back sandwiches. There will be no talking on the phone in the morning (that actually happens rarely, because I call home rarely, but still) (also I probably could still call in the morning, but it feels different when you’re alone, even though I know he doesn’t understand a word of English). He’ll be there when I leave in the morning, probably nagging me to wear the dublyonka. He’ll be there when I come back. AHHHHHH.

Mama Olya also told me that he loves to talk. So he’ll probably tell me a lot about Siberia and history. This would be fine…if I could understand one word he said. Now, I know my Russian isn’t perfect, but I can’t understand ONE word. He speaks in this really low gravelly voice and his words are not clear at ALL. This was the conversation that took place at the dinner table:
Papa Yuri: So where do you live? (this was phrased strangely though, not the typical “where do you live?”, I don’t exactly remember how he phrased it though.)
Natasha: Um…*look of confusion*
Papa Yuri: State.
Natasha: Oh. Ohio.
Papa Yuri: Do you have grandparents?
Natasha: Yes.
Papa Yuri: Where do they live?
Natasha: New Jersey.
Papa Yuri: huh?
Nadya: NEW JERSEY.
Papa Yuri: Oh. Is it watery there?
Natasha: Um…not very….
Papa Yuri: Do they have tornadoes?
Natasha: No, it’s far away from Oregon. (Note: in Russian, the word for “tornado” sounds much like “Oregon”.)
Papa Yuri: (Again asks about tornadoes)
Natasha: (looks at Nadya, the in-house translator from incomprehensible Russian to sort-of comprehensible Russian).
Nadya: Tornado. Very strong wind.
Natasha: Oh, no, they don’t really have them there. Sometimes we have them in Ohio though.
Papa Yuri: (again asks about tornadoes and water. I don’t understand why he wanted to know about the water distribution in the state of New Jersey, from both the sky and the ground, but that’s okay).
Natasha: (Looks at Nadya)
Nadya: Tornadoes, but with water.
Natasha: OH, hurricanes. No, those are mostly in the South.
Papa Yuri: (asks something else about wetlands).
Natasha: (looks at Nadya)
Mama Olya: We can explain later.
Nadya: Well, like, ground, where it’s wet…
Mama Olya: And you can’t go there.
Natasha: OH (like, swamps). No, those are also mostly in the South. I don’t think they have them in New Jersey.

So we had a nice almost discussion about hurricanes and wetlands in the state of New Jersey. Oh wait, no we didn’t. Every time he asked a question it just sounded like mumbling and grumbling. Also, who asks such bizarre questions?

Papa Yuri: Do you like Irkutsk and Russia?
Natasha: Yes.
Papa Yuri: What state does Caroline live in? (Caroline lived here last year)
Natasha: Maryland.
Papa Yuri: And when does she finish school?
Natasha: In February.
Papa Yuri: Oh, that soon. (something incomprehensible about degrees and future plans)
Natasha: Oh…I don’t know.
Nadya: She doesn’t know Caroline very well!
Papa Yuri: (mumbles something) Caroline…Sarah…Oh, Sarah?
Mama Olya: Yes, it’s Sarah that Natasha is good friends with. But she already finished.
Papa Yuri: She probably forgot how to speak Russian.
Natasha: That’s what she told me.
Mama Olya: We spoke on the phone in Russian.
Papa Yuri: (more incomprehensible grumbling)
Natasha: (doesn’t know if this grumbling is directed at her. Sits and smiles)
Mama Olya and Nadya: (blatantly ignore everything he is saying)

Okay, aside from all of that, here are some interesting notes. When I talked to Mama Olya on the phone at 4:30, she didn’t say anything about her husband coming home. Like, did he just call her cell phone and say “Hey, I just landed in Irkutsk”? I mean, I know they were having trouble tracking him, but MAN. Also, Mama Olya’s sister called twice for her. She didn’t know what was going on either. But despite all of that…if your husband or father came home after 6 months of being away, wouldn’t you be happy to see him? Nadya and Mama Olya are REALLY not thrilled. Nadya’s really irritated and short with everyone and Mama Olya is, well, just not thrilled. It seriously feels like all the joy has been sucked out of the apartment and it is now a grey, dreary place. Right now they’re all watching TV in silence.

I mean, Eddie’s host father may be insane, but at least he sounds alright, I think…right? Papa Yuri just sort of lurks around. This is going to take some getting used to.

I’m gonna need to find somewhere where I can just hang out and do homework. I thought about it for a LONG time and absolutely couldn’t think of anywhere I could go to just sit and do work. It’s weird to do it in coffee shops and restaurants. I’d just have to be roaming the streets. I’m going to have to find the white house (library), like, SOON and figure out whether or not I can just hang out there. I think I can, because you’re not allowed to take books out, you have to sit in there and read them. But I also don’t think you can bring anything in other than a pencil and some notebook paper…I dunno, I guess we’ll see (yea, aren’t Russian libraries great? You can’t take books out, you can’t take books in. Sweet.)

Other things worth noting:
Yesterday Mama Olya told me not to wash the dishes in the morning.
She also told me I couldn’t have a trash bag in my room next to my bed, which is ridiculous, considering I only put wrappers and floss in there. Her reasoning for this was that she was doing something (I don’t think vacuuming, but some sort of cleaning) and it was just there.

Thursday, November 22, 2007

I'm sorry I write so much.

I think I successfully avoided my host mother, I just hope no one saw me on the street. At this point I think I’m being overly neurotic. And feel like dying. I still have homework to do.

Update: host mother came home, appears as if she suspects nothing. My defense is that I’m very, very tired.

I’ve already watched 2 movies today. I keep watching the same movies over and over again, but I think I’m okay with that. Speaking of which, I love You’ve Got Mail. I can’t count the number of times I’ve seen it, but it’s simply fabulous. It reinforces my love for so many things. New York, fall, books, coffee. I love everything about this movie-the cast, the soundtrack, the colors, everything-from Meg Ryan’s haircut to the twinkle lights in the windows. AH. I’m sorry, I sound ridiculous.

I love snow, the color yellow, down comforters, twinkle lights, pumpkins, autumn, that crisp smell when it starts to get cool, sweaters, skirts, early mornings, window displays, reading the paper, email, coffee shops, books, book stores, suits, taxi cabs, scarves, park benches, flowers, long coats, literature, tea, New York, being able to sit alone in a coffee shop and read, boats, comfy chairs, mystery, grocery shopping, pictures, springtime, lunch dates, soup, fruit, hardwood floors, streetlamps, umbrellas, a cold and rainy day every once in awhile, white button-downs, friends, coffee mugs, sunshine, bikes, the song “Somewhere Over the Rainbow”…all can be found in You’ve Got Mail. Sorry, that was unreasonably long and unnecessary, I just felt the need to share that.

I just about had a heart attack. I hear snippets of phone conversations, and don’t completely know what’s going on. So, my host father is supposedly coming home soon (he works somewhere in the taiga from April until November). Interestingly enough, no one’s really sure when he’s supposed to be back. At first my host mother said the beginning of November. Then like, 2 weeks ago she warned me that he’d be coming…sometime. It’s almost the end of November and he’s still not here. I actually think this is somewhat of a problem, I heard my host mother calling a bunch of people trying to find out where he is. I think she was crying too. I could imagine that that would be stressful, not knowing what’s going on with your husband, when he’s coming home, or if he’s okay. And since she freaks out and worries 15 times more than regular human beings, this has to be pretty intense anxiety. Anyway so the point of this (before the tangent) is that I hear snippets of phone conversations and the host father could be coming home soon. Well, earlier in the evening I hear my host mother yelling at someone on the phone because she’s been expecting them for something. Then I hear her tell Nadya “He’ll be here in 15 mins.” Note, this is at 10:30 at night. So I start freaking out because I’m thinking the host father is coming home, now ALL of my freedom will be gone instead of just most of it, I’m not going to be able to flush my kasha down the toilet in the mornings and put back my sandwiches, I’m going to have to eat EVERYTHING, I’m not going to be alone in the afternoons, I’m so not ready for this! So then someone calls and the host mother says “yes, I’ll come let you in”. I assume that this is necessary because they about a month ago changed the locks on the outer door. The host father probably doesn’t have a key. But then I notice on the phone she’s using “Vy” and not “ty”. You wouldn’t use the formal with your own husband, right? So I’m now not so much freaking out, just a little more confused.

And in walks this guy in some sort of worker outfit. He comes, measure’s Nadya’s window (which they half replaced about a week and a half ago), says he’ll come tomorrow at 2 PM, and leaves. WHAT?! It’s 11 at night! Who does that? What kind of window man has those kinds of hours? And it’s not like he was just in jeans or something, he was fully outfitted to replace windows. Also, did they just not measure the window last time? WHAT IS THIS?! So, moral of the story is, I’m still confused, relieved that my minor freedoms haven’t been taken away yet, and Russia is completely ridiculous right now.

Oh, also, Monday at the SPO Phoenix I shared my mini peanut butter packs (thanks mom)! They were all really excited and I was really excited and it was great. Except at the time I had my splitting headache. They all weren’t sure how to eat it though, and I got to explain the many applications of peanut butter. If we were playing sports, but in, like, a food world, I think peanut butter would be the utility player. You can eat anything with peanut butter. That’s not actually true, now that I think about it, but whatever.

We also played this horrible game where we had to act out a fairy tale. We were each given parts with what we needed to do, and then we were supposed to interact for 20 mins. First of all, once I figured out what we were doing, I wasn’t really sure what I was supposed to do. And then I understood everything, just didn’t know what to do, because I’m a horrible actress and my vocabulary is relatively limited. That didn’t help the headache.

Wednesday, November 21st
So next time I’m sick I’m just going to flat out be sick (I wasn’t really sick so much though, because migraines/headaches aren’t like the flu or a cold or something). The avoiding the host family and worrying about being seen on the street and actually dragging myself out of the apartment for three hours (which was entirely unnecessary, by the way) was way more work and effort then just convincing them to leave me alone. Also, mom, I did take an Excedrin, but then it made me really nervous and jumpy and I started hiding under the bed when I heard the cats playing with a bucket, thinking it was the key in the door. Is this extreme? Yes. I really think the Excedrin was too strong (I can’t remember the last time I had that much caffeine at once) and made me think that these things were necessary. So I ended up leaving the house an hour and a half before they were supposed to arrive (did I already mention that? Probably.)

My host mother just gave me an extremely long-winded rundown of what leftover dinners are. Because I’d never heard of one before.
Mama Olya: Tonight we’re going to eat all the food we have! We have to. It’s been in the fridge and we need to eat it all.
Natasha: Okay. Sounds good.
Mama Olya: You see, all the food we’ve had for the past little while we haven’t eaten all, and it can’t sit there forever, so we’re going to have to eat it all now. It must be gone by the time dinner is done. It’s all of the food I made this week (explains the various food items, which I am actually familiar with, having eaten them just a few days ago).
Natasha: Okay. I’m ready.
*10 mins later at the dinner table*
Mama Olya: So I was cleaning today because the window man was here, and I noticed that I had all this frozen meat but I didn’t manage to make anything (man, if I could only directly translate the verb успеть and how it’s used in conversational Russian), but then I realized that we needed to eat this food that I made earlier, because there’s a lot of it in the fridge, so I decided we would do that tonight, and that’s why we’re eating all of these different things and we have to eat them all.
Natasha: Yup.

The other thing was that she made me scrambled eggs with noodles. I’m pretty sure she made the noodles yesterday, which means they aren’t going bad anytime soon, and we probably don’t need to eat them. Also the eggs probably could have been saved as well. So my dinner wasn’t really leftovers at all (except for the soup, which to be honest, tasted a little funky).

This morning I just about had a heart attack when I walked out of the apartment and realized that I only had a 500 ruble bill. You can’t pay for a 10 ruble marshrutka ride with a 500 ruble bill. So I panicked for a second, thinking I needed to find a bankomat or something small to buy, and I would be late for Baikalovedene and I HATE being late for class, and then I had a moment of clarity. My stop has a kiosk (as all stops tend to have) that sells phone cards. How convenient! I probably could use a phone card! I managed to purchase my 300 ruble phone card (which should last me the rest of my stay, I think), hopped on the 64 marshrutka, and was even 15 mins early for class. Excellent. Joseph and I talked with Pavel Alexandrovich, who may be one of my favorite Russians that I am in contact with (maybe that’s because we’re only in contact 2 hours and 40 mins per week). Joseph seemed to have had a number of catastrophes in the last, like, day and a half, most of them involving balalaikas. And then Pavel Alexandrovich smiled and said “I had a catastrophe too!” and told us this story about how he needed to return a book to his colleague, the colleague got sick, and now Pavel Alexandrovich is teaching this other guy’s class (like, substituting). I don’t know if that is the catastrophe or if I just missed something (clearly I missed something, there had to be more than just that). Maybe the catastrophe is he didn’t prepare anything for the class. He also gave us websites to find information for our paper.

Then we talked about more projects that the Soviets started (and rarely finished). One of them was that they wanted to build a dam and control the water level of Baikal based on how much water they needed to use for energy purposes. Pavel Alexandrovich said that this would be disastrous for some reason, I think some sort of plankton would die off for some reason and the galamyanka wouldn’t know what to do if the plankton were a few meters higher than they should have been. That’s probably not true, but that’s what I got out of it. The other thing he explained (that I clearly did not fully understand) was that they were cutting down these pine trees (“like the ones we have at Christmas and New Years,” Pavel Alexandrovich explained) and just putting them into the river so they would flow into Baikal. Then when they were in the lake they would gather them with boats (well, they’d tie them together with ropes). This plan didn’t work evidently because the pine trees kept drifting apart, even with the ropes. I’m not really sure what the point of this was, but, as Pavel Alexandrovich explained, most of these projects didn’t really have a point to them.

Okay, that’s something I completely can’t understand. So the Soviet Union started all of these projects, but never really thought them out. It would be one person’s idea, and then they’d start it. It didn’t really matter where they did it or whether or not it would be beneficial. But then if the person died, and no one else cared about it, they’d just drop the project. Or, most of the time, they didn’t have the money to finish it. So there were like, thousands of these half done projects, and they kept starting new ones. Like, how is there a collection of people that don’t think that is absolutely ridiculous? What a waste of money! Great job, Soviet Union. Also, cutting down pine trees and then throwing them into the river so they’ll flow into Baikal and THEN gathering them? They were already gathered! It’s called a forest!

Okay, enough of that. Sometimes it baffles me how a country could have been so ridiculous and disorganized. And sometimes still is. But it just seems like no one cares; all of the people we’ve talked to (which, truth be told, is a limited amount of people, but STILL) don’t seem to care. They don’t know what the government is doing, what any of their politicians think, what would be best for the country as a whole…it’s this idea that if it’s not affecting them, it doesn’t matter. And they don’t THINK that it affects them but when the entire country is, well, as it is, it DOES affect them. How can they not see this?

Sorry, I think that was me being, like, WHOA American.

Tomorrow we have this conference where all the foreign students get together and talk about their experiences. See, it wasn’t until today that someone fully explained this to me. Everyone had been talking about this conference and how it was this huge deal and we HAD to say something, but no one told us what we were supposed to talk about or what it even was until today. I guess the point is to figure out what they could improve on and how our experiences differ. We’ll be there, the Koreans, the Chinese, and the Germans. They also said that they invited the Russian students, but about 10 will probably show up. For some reason we’re in the giant lecture hall, which intimidates me a little bit. When we asked Vladimir Konstantinovich when it started, he said maybe 1:30, but that may vary because it takes time to gather everyone (this is something else I don’t understand. People aren’t, like, sheep. They don’t need to be gathered. They just need to bring themselves to the conference at the appropriate time. Again, the disorganization). I’ll let you all know how it goes. I’m actually interested to see what the other students have to stay. They live in dorms, not with families, so I’d like to hear how that is.

Then tomorrow we have Thanksgiving dinner at Elisabeth’s. I’m making homemade peanut butter cups (I think. I have the peanut butter, and the marshmallows, but the semi-sweet chocolate chips I couldn’t find, so I just bought 2 dark chocolate bars. I’m pretty sure this is going to be a disaster).

We watched the most God-awful movie today. It was like 2 ½ hours long, where a bunch of people are working in an office and this geeky looking guy with thick glasses (looked like one of the professors in the physics department, actually) pursues his boss, who is this woman that looks A LOT like a man. For the last like 10 mins of the movie they’re screaming at each other and throwing things and chasing each other, trying to hit each other, etc (this was quite the pathetic office fight scene, stacks of paper and telephones being thrown), and the guy tries to run away but the woman is still trying to attack him, then he gets into a cab and she follows him, so as the driver is driving they’re smacking each other in the backseat, and then he kisses her and everything is okay. WHAT?! It was awful. I wanted to die.

Also China is a no-go. It’s just way too expensive and would be way too much time and just impractical. BUT it means I can come home earlier…J. And I can hang out with Jenna a lot at home. So now the question is…do I want to be home for Christmas? This would limit my traveling ability around St. Petersburg and Moscow and Yaroslavl….but I might just want to do that.

Okay, I’m off to make homemade peanut butter cups.

Update: Okay, I don’t think that was as much of a disaster as I thought it would be, but I guess we’ll see. I think I burned it a little bit, but hopefully it’s not noticeable? Also I greased my pan with a marshmallow. There aren’t any napkins or paper towels in the apartment right now. I tried to use toilet paper, but it sort of disintegrated as I was greasing, and little blue paper bits were in the butter. And I didn’t want to use my fingers, so I just used a marshmallow. I am SO resourceful.

Thursday, November 22nd
Happy Thanksgiving!

So we’ve been talking about all these projects they had in the Soviet days, and today we talked about some sort of land distribution. I don’t really know. I think they redistributed animals too. That’s probably not true, but they did try to introduce flora, fayna (how would you write that in English?), and some sort of fish that would eat mosquitoes to keep people from getting malaria. I think that all this reintroducing of animals would through off the balance of the food chain, but Pavel Alexandrovich didn’t seem to think so. Also there was some sort of tie between capitalism and what we do with nature, and he said that they couldn’t do that because capitalism couldn’t survive in Russia (or maybe it just wasn’t there? I also think capitalism is struggling here), so this was socialism’s solution to their nature problem (reintroduce animals and create specialized land zones). I don’t really know what the problem was to begin with, but that’s okay. Also Stalin wanted to plant a giant wall of trees along the southern border of Russia to protect Western Russia from the strong winds coming from Central Asia. WHAT?! Like, who comes up with that? I can’t believe these people ran a country for so long. Actually, I can, because he just killed anyone that disagreed with him, and Russia ended up a disaster, as one would expect.

Pavel Alexandrovich is still completely awesome though. Despite the fact that earlier in the semester he told us that different types of galamyanka couldn’t mate with each other (well, they physically could, they’re the same species, but different types), and his explanation was that it was the same way that different races of humans couldn’t mix. This led us to believe that it was, in fact, possible, for these galamyanki to interbreed (is that a word?), as well as wonder whether or not all Russians think like that, or just him.

Today there was a major conference, “Russia through the eyes of foreigners” (roughly translated). I think it went sort of well, but it was REALLY long. Like 2 hours. A lot of Russians were there and they said they thought it was interesting. Vladimir Konstantinovich and Alexandra Vladimirovna were especially pleased. They took my essay to do something with it. Not really sure.

I’m off to Thanksgiving dinner with my burnt homemade peanut butter bars! I’m going to buy ice cream and hope that drowns out the burnt flavor.

Further update: Thanksgiving was great. I'm going to another children's home tomorrow but would sort of rather start working on my paper and studying for my TEST we have in Baikalovedene Thursday! ahhhhhh

Monday, November 19, 2007

ugh

I feel like crap.

Can you get a headache from thinking too much? I think you can. I did homework in Café Fiesta today with Ivan and Eddie. My goal was to never go back again (after they were being so ridiculous about the wireless internet, and everything else in general), but there really isn’t anywhere else we can just hang out and do homework. So I went, and got 10 mins of internet. Then I couldn’t reply to Eddie’s text message (or Ivan’s) because I didn’t have any money on my phone. In about 10 mins I have to leave to go to a meeting that I really don’t want to go to. I don’t have to, but I should. It’s good for my language development to be with actual Russians my age. Plus they’re all very nice. I don’t know.

Oh, also this сукa (you can look that up in a translator, I’m not providing the translation for that one) in Café Fiesta told us we had to move tables because we didn’t pay the 90 rubles to sit there (they have regular tables, and then tables with these weird couches). I’m pretty sure she was just doing it to be…well, a сукa. I HATE people like that.

I started thinking a lot about Russia after reading Eddie’s blog and got really sad. It’s hard to describe the experience of living here. On the one hand, I (especially now) am just like “GET ME OUT OF HERE”, but on the other hand, I’m ALWAYS thinking about when I can come back. I think I’m just getting really frustrated with stuff. There are all these people I’m ready to say goodbye to NOW, but I still have four weeks left. I feel like I do and I don’t want to have ties to Irkutsk once I leave. I do, because when (eek…if?) I come back it’d be nice to have friends that I’d kept in touch with. But at the same time I just want to leave, and not have anything to do with Russia for awhile. I just already feel done. I have no motivation to further immerse myself (though I don’t know what else I would do…I go to my clubs, hang out with Russian people, went to the children’s home…I guess the point is that I don’t feel especially motivated to do these things).

And just when I thought I had gotten one of those “goodbyes” out of the way, Evgenii/Zhenya emails me. After he left for Olhon we exchanged like, maybe 3 text messages, but other than that I hadn’t talked to him. And then out of the blue he emails me. Evidently he’s trying to find another job and another apartment. But anyway he told me that as soon as he finds a new apartment, he’s going to have a housewarming party and I’m invited. He also wanted to know if I wanted to go somewhere (like, Listvianka? Olhon? No idea). This is nice of him…but no thanks. I mean, honestly, a) housewarming party-being in an apartment with a bunch of 25-35 year old Russian men? Um, thanks, but no thanks. B) GOING somewhere? Absolutely not. Anyway, I had thought (hoped) that he had just lost interest and not called, and that I wouldn’t have to do anything, but now I need to make myself very “busy” for the next four weeks. Actually I have two papers to write, so that won’t be hard. But seriously, why on earth would someone be interested in this random foreigner than can only half speak the language? Like, can he not find any Russian girls to hang out with?

And then I’m thinking of things I would have done differently, and I really regret not being able to spend more time with Leonya and Anya. But I don’t even know how I would go about doing that. Even now…I mean, what would we do? I feel weird asking if I can just come over and hang out, and whenever any one of my friends comes over here it seems like a big deal and I’m just never really relaxed (actually this has happened twice…once with Sonya, and once with Leonya/Anya/Eddie). Like, what do he and Eddie do when they hang out all the time? It makes me sad that I don’t live with him. I don’t know. It’s an upsetting situation for me and even though I still have four weeks left I don’t know what to do about it.

The moral of the story is that I have a splitting headache, am tired of everything and everyone, still have homework to do, and two papers in Russian to write. I am terrified of this. Just so you all know, I don’t speak Russian. Actually most of the time I’m just anxious and afraid with waves of absolute terror and panic every once in awhile. 10-20 pages in Russian. Times two. I think that it’s not the writing so much that scares me, I think I can do that, it’ll just be slow. It’s the research and gathering information that scares me. Also my course scheduling is going nowhere and is very frustrating. This would be so much easier to do if my class wouldn’t be so difficult and conflict with each other and if I were on campus right now.

Okay, sorry this entire entry was me whining and complaining. On the upside, my friend Anya might be in the US this summer!

Later updated: I can’t remember the last time I’ve had a headache this bad. I think it might be a migraine, actually. I used to get migraines a lot in high school but haven’t had one in awhile. I actually shouldn’t be typing because it certainly isn’t helping. I’d say that if I feel like this in the morning there’s no way I’m going to class, but then I’d have to do something between, like, 1-2:30 so my host mother/sister don’t catch me at home, because then they’ll think I’m sick, and then they’ll a) want to take care of me and b) say it’s because I don’t wear enough winter clothing (also I wore half of what they wanted me to today and was sweating profusely. I even had to take off my hat so I didn’t overheat). I don’t feel like dealing with that situation.

Tuesday, November 20th
If I wanted to go to class, I should have left 20 mins ago. I still have a splitting headache, and if I feel like this NOW, I can’t imagine what a 30 min marshrutka ride and 2 hour and 20 min grammar and speech practice classes would do for me. I think I’d be dead at that point. But now I’m terrified that my host family is going to catch me here, so in about an hour I have to leave the apartment and…do what for 2 hours? All I want to do is climb back into bed. I think the only thing worse than being sick (I’m not really sick though, I just have a migraine) is being sick and then having to PRETEND that you’re not. UGH.

Also there’s no electricity in the apartment. Not really sure why.

Further update: I'm now at the internet cafe hiding out from my host family while they come home and eat lunch. Except I left the apartment ridiculously early because I was so neurotic about it (I left around 11:45, they'll arrive at 1:15). So I have this splitting migraine and another hour and a half before I can go back. They won't even come back for another 45 mins. This is almost worse than just sucking it up and being in class. Also leaving early was entirely unnecessary, because they're more or less very predictable in what they do. But what if today they weren't? Then what would I do?

This sucks.

Sunday, November 18, 2007

bleh.

Okay, I am a champion marshmallow roaster. That is all.

Also we have no cold water in the apartment, making it hard to take a shower (which I haven’t done in three days). I tried, but my host mother insisted that I couldn’t because I’d burn myself (even though I told her that the “hot” water coming out of the faucet is really more lukewarm). I think it’s hot now though. But enough is enough. I’m willing to risk scalding myself for cleanliness.

Actually I won’t scald myself, I’ll just put a bunch of water in little tubs and wait for them to cool off before using them. Yea, so not hard.

Being at the children’s home was also surprisingly good for my Russian. I was playing with this one girl, Dasha, and we were coloring (well, she didn’t really want to color so much) but she kept telling me what she wanted me to draw. Sometimes I could, and if there was a word I didn’t know, I’d have her color it to show me. This means a) I was learning new words and b) it gave her something to do.

The sad part about all of this is that I look at a lot of the cute little boys and think that in 15 years, they’ll probably be sleazy Russian men.

Karrina still loves me, just as an update. Oh, and my host mother just told me that marshmallows are food. Fruit is not, but marshmallows are. Also the other day when she asked me what the most important part of my body to keep warm was, she told me my legs (I said head, since how much of your body heat escapes through your head? Like a lot). She told me if my legs weren’t warm then soon my face, sinuses, and teeth would start hurting. She also told me to ask my Dad, since he’s a doctor. She also just yelled at me for eating marshmallows, because it clearly means I’m hungry, and should be in the kitchen eating soup.

See, now I’m thinking that I might just not come back to Irkutsk after I leave for Moscow, like, the day after classes end. If I could get Middlebury to just reimburse me for my plane ticket from Irkutsk to Moscow…that would be fabulous. They also said they’d pay for a train ticket instead, but train tickets are WAY less expensive than train tickets…so I’d sort of rather just buy the train ticket myself and have them reimburse me for the plane ticket.

Obituary

Purple “Cricket” Swedish Match Lighter

Born: November 18th, 12:35 PM

Died: November 19th, 2:13 PM

Lifespan: 40 marshmallows

I’d give a eulogy, but I don’t really think that’s necessary.

Saturday, November 17, 2007

Do you ever feel like you need to crack your ribcage? Like, the way you feel like you need to crack your knee or something? I do. Like, that spot right in the middle, probably where surgeons would crack open my ribcage to get to my chest cavity (let’s hope that’s actually never necessary).

Sarah told me that when my host father comes home my alone time in the apartment is like GONE. Which is really, really sad. I only have four weeks left, so it’s not really THAT big of a deal, but still. She also said he’s probably going to feed me breakfast, which is a MAJOR problem because it means I actually have to eat it all, instead of skillfully putting it back/flushing some down the toilet (you all think I’m crazy right now, but it’s actually the ONLY way to escape eating it. The psychology of the food culture here is actually insane. Did that make sense? Not really, but that’s okay).

Whoa. Only four weeks left. That is weeeeeird. I need to write 2 term papers. That’s not really okay.

Today was a good Russia day. Also I had something more important to say but forgot.

Friday, November 16th
For the first time ever, I almost wished I were a smoker, because then I’d have a lighter over which I could roast my newly acquired marshmallows. But I am not a smoker, and do not have a lighter. I’ll need to get on that. I tried over the stove, but it wouldn’t get hot enough. Also I’ve tried to do that over candles, but then they tasted like lavender or fresh sea breeze, and I didn’t really like that.

So then I tried to make a nice melted marshmallow/chocolate/peanut butter mix, but it quickly turned into a gross goopy mess.

Also Eddie’s host mother yelled at the cat for not eating enough. No joke.

Later tonight we’re going to a bar around the main square. Although it’s probably only like a 10-15 min walk for me, I’ll probably end up taking a taxi home. I’m a bit apprehensive about walking alone at night along back streets. It’ll be nice to just hang together, though the search for an inexpensive bar/restaurant/place with a social atmosphere is still on.

Saturday, November 17th
So last night was fun. Not really a whole lot to say about that.

Today we went to the children’s home. Sometimes I didn’t really know what to do with them, or really understand what they were saying, but that’s okay. They were really cute and were glad we were there. Of course, for some reason, I started carrying one little kid around on my back and then they ALL wanted to be carried around, so for like 20 minutes we were just running around this little room with small children on our backs. We’re going back tomorrow, so that’s good.

Afterwards we went to “Blin’OK,” which is somewhere I had wanted to go for quite awhile. I had a blini (a blin?) with bananas. Sonya, Ivan, Adrienne, and I went with this girl named Vika (from the Rotary club, Russian girl) and Mary (here on a Fulbright). It was all very nice.

My host mother keeps yelling at me because I’m not wearing enough clothing. She doesn’t believe that I’m actually warm when I go outside. At this point I almost just want to suck it up, freeze, and wear my pea coat all winter just to irritate her. So now she keeps telling me that we should buy a new coat if I won’t wear the dublyonka. I told her it isn’t the coat itself, it’s that it’s not cold enough yet. There aren’t any other Russians wearing dublyonkas yet, and I’m warm in my pea coat. Anyway I promised that when it hits minus 20, I’ll start wearing the dublyonka, but until then, I wear the pea coat.

I mean, I wouldn’t particularly mind wearing the dublyonka now, except for the fact that I’d probably stand out a lot. At this point I think I’m just trying to prove a point. Like, I have little control over what I do in Russia because I CAN’T BE INDEPENDENT, so I’ll control what I can. This mentality is also seeping into my mealtimes, as I’m refusing more and more food. Actually I’m just getting more stubborn in general. It’s usually a good sign when she’s upset with me, because it means I’ve done something good for me (like, not eaten disgusting amounts of greasy food, not sweating to death, etc). When did I become such a ridiculous passive-aggressive person? Oh yea, Russia will do that to you.

Sunday, November 18th
Just got back from the children’s home again. It was nice, but still sad when you think about the whole situation. The place where we go isn’t really a home, it’s more like a daycare kind of place (called the detskii sad, or literally translated, children garden). They live in these homes that are like, 20 kids in an apartment with an adult to take care of them. They’re like 5 or 6 but developmentally way behind where they need to be. Vika wanted to get people from her club together to do a New Year’s/Christmas thing for them.

In other news, I bought a lighter today and have begun to roast marshmallows on a fork in the kitchen. I have my marshmallows with tea, naturally. I don’t know exactly how long lighters last. I mean, first of all, I don’t really have experience with them, but second of all, they’re generally used to light something really quick and then be turned off. They don’t usually sit and burn so as to roast, say, a marshmallow or something. I think Nadya thinks I’m insane.

Okay, I’m going to roast one more marshmallow, and then I’m off to the internet café to post this.

Short update: On the way here, I saw some guy taken out by ice. And the Russians told me that I could wear heels because they don't have ice in the winter. Yea RIGHT.

Thursday, November 15, 2007

YAY!

Everyone needs to read the comment my cousin Allie left me under the "more worthless thoughts" entry, because it's probably the best comment I've ever received.

Thanks Allie :)

Wednesday, November 14, 2007

More worthless thoughts.

When I’m feeling as if I’m especially sick of Russia (which is often these days), I buy pirated DVDs. This happens rarely, actually; I’ve only done it a couple times. But still. You can get them for less than it costs to rent one at Blockbuster (which is fairly expensive, now that I think about it). But anyway it’s really wonderful and they’re very cheap and I can watch them as often as possible. I’m watching Little Miss Sunshine right now. I also got Traffic to watch at a later date, although I’m not entirely sure that will work wonders for my mood.

Today I ate an apple with peanut butter. Then I just ate peanut butter. The lack of non-stale bread in this house is a bit unfortunate. Now that I have peanut butter I’ve been substituting peanut butter and jelly mini sandwiches for my breakfast. Mmm. Yes.

Tried to organize a lunch to talk about going to the children’s home. Sonya was the only one who showed up. I didn’t think Ivan would come (nor should he) since it was his dad’s last day in Irkutsk…but I dunno about the others. Joseph was probably still at the dacha. Who knows. I was sort of irritated…but I’m often irritated, so whatever.

Also Karrina is definitely in heat, but it doesn’t matter, she still loves me a lot. I’m sure we’ll continue to be BFFs once this passes.

I really don’t want to do my homework. And I need to so I can start writing this 10 page papers. Aghhhhhrrrrrrrgggggg.

I’m gonna go belly buzz Karrina now.

I am like totally worthless. I need to start planning activities in the evenings, so I can still enjoy time alone at home, but do something somewhat productive. I just sit here and play games. Ugh.

Maybe if I had told the FBI about my recently acquired Sudoku and FreeCell skills they’d have wanted me.

Next day (November 13th)
Today is Sarah’s birthday! I would love to call her but don’t have her home number…I’ll get it soon.

Update: Mama Olya called Sarah to wish her a happy birthday, but I didn’t get to talk to her L. Sarah….I’ll call sooooon…Also I think we woke her up.

Today on the marshrutka this woman didn’t shut the door all the way, and when the van started moving again it flew open…everyone just sort of sat around looking at it (I don’t really understand why the woman next to the door didn’t do anything…or the woman who didn’t shut the door correctly…) but anyway, the driver just looked at it and hit the brakes just enough for the door to shut (but not enough for all of us to fly forward, thank God). It was awesome. I was beyond amused. He was also nice just in general, dropping people where they wanted along the route instead of just at the stops. And he didn’t even yell at this girl who had a 500 ruble bill (a sin on the marshrutka, since each ride is only 10 rubles). He just said he couldn’t change it and let her go.

Yesterday and today have sort of been, like, “one of those days”…except there were two. All of these things alone are no big deal, but when you put them together, and add the fact that these days I’m generally just in a bad mood and sick of Russia, it’s basically like the end of the world. First of all, Sonya was the only one who showed up to our meeting yesterday. Not really a big deal. THEN they didn’t have blini bananovii rai (banana paradise) at Domino’s. Then later today, I was just in general irritated in class, and find out that I guess there’s already a children’s home that people are going to? Why did I not know about this? (At the same time I realize I was supposed to be doing more about this, but still, the slowness of the process wasn’t exactly all my fault). Later I went to Café Koks to use their free wifi and for some reason the door was locked. And I couldn’t get inside. Then the cursor on my computer was like not at ALL working, and so at last I figured I would just sit down and watch a movie.

And then I realized I bought “Traffic” in Russian. In ONLY Russian. Although the disc SAYS it’s in English OR Russian with English OR Russian subtitles, it doesn’t. It has Russian dubbing…or very quiet English and THEN Russian dubbing. This is ridiculous.

So I watched Little Miss Sunshine. Again.

Every time I open my computer I think I have something worthwhile to write, and then I see my “blog entry” document and realize that I actually have nothing to say.

But since I haven’t really been sleeping much, I’ve decided that it’s ridiculous to just lie there and sleep and not do anything. So I’m going to be really productive tonight. I’m reading right now, but I’m also going to fold and put away my clothes and clear off a place on my desk to work (I think this is a better choice than having it be my toiletries table).

Karrina is just sort of rolling back and forth on the floor and it’s really funny looking. Also my cursor is spontaneously flying all over the screen.

So, it’s finally gotten cold here, but it’s not THAT cold. I mean, I guess it’s cold compared to what I’m used to in November, but it’s definitely not too cold. At night/in the morning it’s like -15 C (5 F) and during the day it’s like -5 or -10 (14-23). Granted, it’s cold, but it is NOT dublyonka weather. My host mother insisted that I wear my dublyonka and my fur boots. But my regular boots and black pea coat are quite warm. Also, they keep saying that everyone’s dressing for winter, but I have not seen ONE dublyonka. I’ve seen some fur coats, but I think that’s like a middle level in between the regular coat and the dublyonka (and a completely unnecessary middle step, as far as I’m concerned). Also I asked my Speech Practice teacher and SHE said that although technically the weather is cold enough to wear a dublyonka, none of the younger people do it because it’s too early. Have to wait. She also says it’s no big deal just to layer and wait a couple weeks until everyone else starts wearing their dublyonkas. It’s maybe cold enough to switch my regular hat for my zhivotniya (again, this means animal in Russian, but the meaning is entirely lost in the translation. Also we (mainly Sonya and I, or maybe just me) refer to our hats not as hats, but as zhivotnie. As in, we’re wearing our zhivotnie today, not our hats. This is important because my hat has so much fur it actually might be a full zhivotniya. Hard to tell). Anyway there is no real reason for this rant, the point is that I’m standing firm and wearing my “fall” clothes but NOT freezing and I will not back down. She keeps saying she doesn’t care what I wear but she won’t drop it so it’s clearly some sort of big issue.

It’s so not that cold. And Karrina so loves me right now.

November 14th
I GOT MY PACKAGE TODAY!!!! It had quite a journey. From Cleveland it went to England, and then to Moscow, then Novosibirsk, then back to Moscow, and then to Irkutsk. Good thing there wasn’t anything breakable in there, because I don’t know WHAT they did to the box, but my little peanut butter tubs were somehow torn out of their packages and one of my jelly belly boxes got stabbed open and there were jellybeans everywhere. But it’s okay, because everything was there, and YAAAAAAAAAAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I now have lots of peanut butter, marshmallows, and jellybeans. Karrina and Chucha were very curious as to what this mysterious package was. I’ve folded all my clothes and now I’m reorganizing my room. Since I actually have more than a half hour of reading to do, I probably will want to use my desk. But now I’m writing and playing freecell because I folded clothes for like ten minutes. Time for a break.

My host mother came home early. That is sad because I was so looking forward to being in the apartment alone. Also I just noticed that Karrina is like, really, REALLY soft. She probably would make a good hat. That’s the most awful thing I’ve ever said.

One of my marshmallow packages says it’s “award-winning”. Who gives awards for marshmallows? I mean, I like them, and I like making smores, but this is certainly not a food worthy of an award.

I cleaned off my desk and it’s actually quite nice. I was a little skeptical, because I don’t like working somewhere where the table/desk is too low. In fact, I prefer it to be higher than normal. The desk:chair height ratio of this unit is superb.

Thursday, November 15th:
Today I wanted to do all KINDS of things on the internet. So I’m sitting right now in Café KoKs (this very upscale New York-ish place with free wi-fi) and I ordered myself a nice little lunch and a glass of wine. And internet. Except the internet isn’t working, and now I’m sad, because I look pretty weird having lunch alone. I should have better thought this out.
The other people here include:
Some guy and girl that look like they’re on a date.
Two girls.
This old looking Buryat guy and this young looking not-Buryat guy.
Four men, 2 older, 2 younger, that are probably part of the Russian mob.
Oh, then me. All by myself.
I’ve decided I’m going to watch Traffic in Russian. At the very least it’ll be good for my language development, and I have seen it once so I sort of remember the storyline.

Sunday, November 11, 2007

More updates. This is me not doing homework.

Today marks the first time I’ve ever seen mandarin oranges in plastic packaging. They’re like individually wrapped fortune-oranges. I think they’re from China or something. I don’t really know.

Also we were eating dinner and some comedian came on and started making fun of America. I actually didn’t understand anything so I could neither laugh nor be offended, but then the following conversation took place with my host mother:
Host mother: So, do most Americans like Bush?
Natasha: Well, I’d say a little less than half. Our country is pretty split down the middle. We have two main parties.
Host mother: Oh, we have elections coming up. We have 11 parties.
Natasha: Well, we have more than just two, but they’re very small and don’t do anything. It’s really only the main two that are important.
Host mother: We have 11, but still don’t know anything. No one knows what’s going on. I suppose it’s the same way with your country.
Natasha: mmm….no, we pretty much know what’s going on.
Host mother: Well it’s all the same. We have elections, but it doesn’t matter, because the population can’t do anything. We don’t know what’s going on and there’s nothing we can change. I’m sure it’s like that with you too.
Natasha: No…actually people can change anything.

Russia is a sad place that way. I think there’s almost this strange, simplified version of looking at things. As in, the greater picture or greater idea is just too much to think about. Moreover, I think they see it as not worth thinking about since they think that there is nothing they can do. Any conversation we’ve had about before and after is always overly simplified. It’s like when Sonya asked her host mother if things were better now than during communism, she replied that kielbasa was cheaper then…but now she can fly to Moscow and out of the country, so that’s nice. And in Mongolia, where the only good thing about Democracy was that more money might be coming into the country, but all the bad things that happened were also the fault of Democracy. It’s so overly simplified it kills me. I feel like so many people we’ve talked to here are so tunnel-visioned about everything. There is no greater world view.

I almost had a minor heart attack when my NEW power cord started beeping and not charging my computer. But everything is fine now.

Also Sonya and I went to the KoKs café today, where they also have free wireless (well, I say free, but it’s really “free”, because you have to buy, like, a coffee or something). I liked it a lot, it was very modern and upscale but still felt comfortable. It’s a little too upscale, though, so I won’t be going there often. But I would prefer to go there on a Friday or Saturday night instead of a bar.

I think this Christmas music is unhealthy for me. I just seem to have these associations attached to this mix of Christmas music that I have, and it’s making me want to live out those mental pictures. I’m reminded of finishing finals, lots of snow, being in Cleveland, running to the sounds of the Tran-Siberian Orchestra, driving at night, walking at night, Christmas shopping, Christmas tree decorating, etc. It’s sort of interesting that I’ve formed these associations based on things that have only happened in the last 2 years, but that’s okay I guess. Anyway, for some odd reason I’m especially reminded of driving Jetta around, perhaps on Pleasant Valley, going up to Blockbuster to get a movie on a winter night, and being stopped at that stoplight around 77. These are very odd associations, but as I think about them, I realize that I’d rather be doing that then being frustrated with the kind of life I lead in Irkutsk. I think it’s that I feel like such an unproductive and worthless person. My host mother won’t even let me hang up my own clothes to dry. I can’t go and exercise every day. I just don’t lead a productive, independent life and it’s driving me crazy.

I’ve looked at some travel stuff for the end of the semester. But I’m almost at the point where it’s like-how much am I going to want to travel? I think at that point I might be so tired I’ll just want to go home. But then it seems stupid to go home that early, especially when I’m just going to be sitting around and working out (although that in itself might be a good enough reason). And then I think to myself that there are things that I don’t have to see right now, because I’ll surely be coming back to Russia in the near future. But what if I don’t? What if all of a sudden all of my plans (very, very vague plans, but still plans) change and I never get the opportunity? What if I apply for a job that’ll put me in Russia for awhile, but I don’t get it? And then I’ll hate myself for not taking advantage of the opportunity I had earlier. Sigh. If anyone has any advice I’ll gladly take it.

Also evidently my host father is coming home soon (did I mention this before)? If I didn’t translate this incorrectly (which is entirely possible, considering we talked about his profession at the very beginning of my arrival in Russia), he does some sort of mining or panning for gold or something in the taiga, and is only home for half of the year. So she said that I shouldn’t be alarmed if I come home one day and there’s an unfamiliar Buryat man in the apartment. She even offered to show me a picture just in case. This means I have to go through another process of being used to someone, but I’ve already become comfortable with my host mother and sister and feel like I’ll be going through that uncomfortable phase all over again. I actually don’t think that’ll happen. But what I DO worry about is that he’ll be home all the time. My favorite times ever are the times after class when I’m alone in the apartment and can just sit or do homework or read or watch Vinnie-Pookh (hard h). That time will be nonexistent if he is here all the time.

I’ve heard he loves history, and will probably show me all of these history books and talk about all kinds of stuff. We’ll probably get along well. I should invite Eddie over too, as he is also a history major (actually Eddie is a history fanatic).

Back to the strange Chinese orange in the plastic package. On the back it has this very bad English translation…I think it’s trying to describe the orange. It’s absolutely hilarious. This is what it says:
mandarin is king of Orange, contain of protein, sugar, vitamin and inorganic salts, etc., sorts of composition, especially contains rich maize element, Vc, Vp, and carotene. Resistant to cancer, health spleen, moisten lung, relieve a cough, it’s appearance beautify, juice savory, flesh delicious, Not only is nourishing product, but also is preserve your health. It is good foods for health.

That made my day.

Saturday, November 10, 2007

Now that I have a working computer, I just write worthless things.

So I’ve been reading Abby’s blogs about Archangelsk and it makes me really excited to be potentially traveling alone for awhile. I can’t decide, however, when I do this enormous amount of traveling, whether or not I want to bring stuff to read in Russian or in English. Maybe both. My plan was to read great Russian literature, but the language question is the hard part. I’m pretty sure that if I had a dictionary next to me, I’m fairly competent enough in Russian to read books. However, the English versions would save me much irritation. However, I am going to have A LOT of time, and reading in English isn’t going to be great for my language development. Anyway.

Some guys are here putting in a new window in Nadya’s room. It’s loud and the cats are scared. This, however, gives me an excuse to close my door and not do anything but read or do homework or plan my course schedule or anything, really, except eating.

Also Karrina all of a sudden absolutely LOVES me. She’s in my room all the time, she jumps into my lap whenever I’m sitting in the kitchen, she slept at the foot of my bed, she’s been rubbing up against my leg, purring a lot, etc. And the thing is, I don’t think she’s in heat right now (which was the explanation as to why she was so affectionate before). We’re totally in love. Maybe she knows I’m leaving soon and wants to get in some quality time before I take off for bigger and better things.

Further update: Just got back from Tanya’s. It was very nice, actually. I really liked her mom and her little sister. We looked at pictures, had pilmeni, blini, and tea, and watched this very long (hour and half) video tour of St. Petersburg. I then looked at more pictures and various things. We talked about various natural disasters, and she showed me her belly dancing costumes. I realize she’s sort of crazy sometimes, but I think I have a number of weird friends like that. I can’t really say no to anyone, so anyone that’s persistent enough is probably going to end up being my friend. So it is with Tanya. I don’t really know what happened in that process of us becoming friends, but it’s fine. I don’t think she has that many friends, actually, so I can be her friend for my last month and a half. And even once I’m back home. Actually, sometimes I think I’d have better relationships with some of my friends if we were to put 13 time zones between us. Anyway, the point of that is, Tanya and her family are really very sweet, and I had a good time.

And I think because of that on the bus on the way back I was having one of my “I love Russia” moments. Where I was on the bus listening to awful techno, and moving very slowly, and all these Russians were sitting around me, but it still felt quite peaceful and nice.

This was all entirely destroyed when I returned home. I am now currently in one of my “get me the hell out of this country” moments.

So I came back, and naturally I was offered food. This is fine, this happens often, it’s sort of like “how are you?” in English. But then my host mother asked what I was doing, where I was, etc, so I told her that I had this friend from our history class and I went to visit her. And she flips out and tells me that it’s totally unsafe to be going to this girl’s house in a region that I don’t know and did I ask Elisabeth about this, don’t I have to do a form, didn’t Elisabeth talk about this during orientation, what if they had wanted to kill me, I need to give her an exact address of where this is located and shouldn’t be anywhere when it’s dark. First of all, Tanya is this like 17 year old girl who is, although somewhat strange, completely harmless. Second of all, I AM NOT 12 YEARS OLD. I’m not socially inept, I know how to read people, I’m not going to some ax-murderers house (the chainsaw story makes this point somewhat ironic). I am a fully functioning adult who is INTELLIGENT enough to be making her own decisions. I’m not completely clueless, I am, in fact, able to get myself out of situations (INCLUDING those with creepy men, this is actually not at all related to the subject but just so everyone knows I’m not stupid and not about to get myself into a situation that I can’t get out of, ie being raped by some creepy Russian), and Tanya is not what I would call a threatening situation. They walked me to the stop, made sure I got on the bus, etc. This is a completely fine, normal, and actually GOOD situation (interactions with Russians that are only sometimes insane!), I don’t need to be treated like some stupid 12 year old that’s going to get into the sketchy car with the guy that has candy. JESUS CHRIST.

I knew I would have problems with this lack of independence in Russia, but why do all of the other American students here have so much more freedom than I do?

I have a lot to do but seriously can’t bring myself to do it. I don’t want to do anything but just sit and watch movies (which I can’t do) or read a book (also can’t do). I have a very strong desire to look at an atlas, as maps are always interesting and more or less understandable in all languages. Tomorrow Sonya and I are going to find the new wi-fi café, I also plan on finding the belii dom (white house, which is the main Irkutsk State University library, and is actually yellow. I don’t remember why it’s the white house and not the yellow house, I think it was painted over or something, but yellow house is also slang for a mental hospital or something). I’m going to do lots of work there and hopefully hide there for long periods of time when I don’t want to be in the apartment. I actually have 2 ten page research papers coming up, so that’s a really convenient excuse to just live there for like a really long time.

Did I mention that I’ve gone completely off the deep end? I think I have mentioned this before, actually. Well my host mother told me that in Washington, D.C., they already put up the giant Christmas tree. And I went on this long sort of rant about how it is WAY to early for that, it’s always unacceptable to do anything Christmasy before Thanksgiving, and even after Thanksgiving, it’s still early if it’s not December. This, of course, makes me a COMPLETE hypocrite because I’ve already started listening to Christmas music. I don’t know how this happened, usually I absolutely refuse to do anything like this before December and even then I usually don’t get around to it until my finals are over (giving me, like, a week to prepare for Christmas). But maybe this year when Christmas comes around I’ll actually be ready to stop listening to Christmas music, instead of when that usually happens in like mid-January.

Now I sort of want to be home for Christmas.